Simone Abbarchi – Bespoke Shirt – First Fitting

First article on the bespoke shirt from Simone Abbarchi isĀ here.

48 hours after the initial meeting with Simone and Gianluca we came back to the atelier for a fitting of the trial shirt (comprised from a basic cotton). This fitting is typically used to get the overall fit of the shirt largely correct, with the second fitting designed to then dial in the fit to its finished form.

Overall there were just a number of small changes, rather than any one area needing a significant adjustment, which is a sign that Simone’s original measurements were quite accurate.

As is pretty common with any bespoke shirt or jacket I have made, the lower back inevitably ends up having to come in more than anyone thought initially, as my back dips in fairly sharply towards my tailbone. So we increased the size of the darts there, as well as shortening the sleeve length a little, taking in some excess from under the arms, as well as taking in some width in the upper arms. The collar was spot on and didn’t need any adjustment and the overall length seemed fine. The shirt sits cleanly across the shoulders, which is a good effort this early on, given that the distance from my neck to my right shoulder is a fair bit narrower due to having broken that collarbone a few times over the years.

As mentioned above, at the first fitting you’re usually expecting a smaller number of changes to bring the shirt roughly to its finished shape, with the next fitting often requiring a higher number of changes to be made, but on a smaller scale to finesse the shirt to it’s finished state.

Next article up on the second fitting in a couple of weeks.

Andrew is an Australian born writer, covering the world's leading bespoke tailors and craftspeople in menswear, with a focus on authentic quality, over branding. He spends most of his days running his successful (god knows how) consulting company and travels frequently to Europe for work and writing. He's a passionate cyclist, former trainee professional golfer and lover of all things Cocker Spaniel. He's married to his best friend and significantly better half, Mehri.

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